Posts by author hiddeneurope
“I want to see the Alps by train, so I’ve the booked a ride south from Berne into Italy,” said Margot. We didn’t have the heart to tell her that a big chunk of the 90-minute run from the Swiss capital south to Domodossola in Italy is through tunnels. Of course, there is a lot » Read more
The Hill House in Helensburgh just outside of Galsgow is a great example of art nouveau architecture. Photo: Karen Bryan
The news last week of the terrible fire at the Glasgow School of Art surely brought great sadness to all devotees of art nouveau architecture and design. Reports over the last day or two suggest that, while much of the building has been saved, the celebrated Mackintosh Library was largely destroyed in the flames. It » Read more
Walking through Subotica. Photo: Backpacking the Balkans
The enthusiasm of many travelers exploring Europe by train seems to flag when they reach Budapest. The Hungarian capital is so very easy to reach from the west and north, and it is thus possible to travel as far as Budapest without any detailed planning. There are regular comfortable EuroCity trains from Prague and Berlin; » Read more
The bible tells us that Scotland has 163 islands that are more than 100 acres in size. The bible, in this case, is Hamish Haswell-Smith’s remarkable book The Scottish Islands. Of those 163 islands, about half are populated by humans (and rather more than half are populated by sheep). About four dozen Scottish islands are » Read more
With many travelers now busy planning summer trips, it’s worth remembering that public transportation across Europe is an ever-changing creature. Routes come, routes go, and new timetables are often introduced to reflect (or defy) changing patterns of demand. Changing timetables To keep abreast of changing schedules, the best comprehensive source of information is the monthly » Read more
Modern tourism has reduced health to a commodity that is bought and sold. ‘Wellness’ breaks focus on massages and other treatments that promote a feel-good factor. But central Europe still boasts a wonderful range of historic spa towns that long predate the modern craze for pampering—and many offer remarkably good value. Claim to fame: Karlovy » Read more
Black Riga Balsam is a classic Latvian spirit that's been enjoyed by locals for over 250 years. Photo: Dave Cross
Traveling around Europe, we are often struck how local alcoholic beverages counter the general tide of globalization. They prevail, sometimes against the odds, as assertively regional products—occasionally even limited to a single city. Whether you opt for Ginja in Lisbon, Unicum in Hungary or for Tentura in Patras, the glass in your hand contains more » Read more
Every now and again one runs across a specific European vineyard or a wider region of wine production which has become the stuff of legend. Think Pétrus (near Bordeaux), Corton-Charlemagne (in Burgundy) or Ornellaia (in Tuscany). Move to central Europe and there are many bright stars in the constellation of fine wines. None shines brighter » Read more
When travelers head out from Berlin to the southeast, driving towards the Czech border, there comes the moment when they are often surprised to discover place names that are unequivocally Slavic in character. And they may be even more surprised, if they take time to explore small villages of the region, to hear that the » Read more
Get away from the crowds by exploring rural Crete on foot. Photo: Enrico Donelli
There are small islands which capture the peculiarities of island life—and bigger islands where insular qualities are less evident. Crete is most certainly in the latter category. It is the largest of the Greek islands, and indeed one of the largest islands in the entire Mediterranean. Only Sicily, Sardinia, Cyprus and Corsica are larger. From » Read more
There are many inventive options for finding alternative Transatlantic flights to Europe. Photo: ALB
The ‘will they or won’t they’ fuss over Norwegian’s proposed transatlantic flight program to London Gatwick for this summer overshadows a number of other interesting developments in the transatlantic aviation market. Norwegian is of course already regularly flying its 787 Dreamliners across the Atlantic, on non-stop routes such as Fort Lauderdale to Copenhagen and New » Read more
The decision last summer of the global travel business Thomas Cook to discontinue publication of its celebrated European Rail Timetable after 140 years was a mighty blow to rail travelers across Europe. However web-wise and connected a traveler may be, there is simply no substitute for a good printed timetable in revealing the overall pattern » Read more
The grave of an Englishwoman in the English Cemetery in Rome. Photo: Marisa Ficorella
England’s 19th-century love affair with Italy has left a legacy in cemeteries across the country. Not all English visitors went home to die. Thus Florence, Livorno, Naples and Rome are Italian cities that boast a Cimitero degli Inglesi. At rest abroad Each warrants a visit, but don’t expect to find a little exclave of England. » Read more
Some small towns make a great mark on the imagination. Think Versailles, Potsdam, Guernica or Srebrenica. One major peace treaty or one awful atrocity inscribes the name of a place into European psychogeography. And thus it is with Weimar, a city of only modest proportions in the Ilm Valley in the German State of Thuringia. » Read more
Germany has a clear tourism agenda for 2014. And that’s to prove to the wider world that it’s a fully compliant member of UNESCO’s World Heritage Program. The German National Tourist Board (GNTB) has just launched a wonderfully informative dedicated website devoted to the country’s 38 entries on the UNESCO List. And it’s a mark » Read more
An iconic scene of the Venice Lagoon with Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore as the perfect backdrop. Photo: Thomas Leplus
The Venetian lagoon is blessed with a great scatter of islands, some of secular demeanor and others more heavenly in aspiration. Lido di Venezia, once home to many brothels, appeals to instincts of the flesh. Those looking for more spiritual diversions might retreat to Isola di San Francesco del Deserto—a wee fleck on the map » Read more
A view of the gates on Isola di San Michele from the water. Photo: ahisgett
If you are jostling with the tourist crowds between the Rialto and San Marco, you might hardly credit that there is a corner of Venice which is even more overcrowded. Hop on a vaporetto for the short ride to ‘Cimitero’ to find Igor Stravinsky rubbing shoulders with Sergei Diaghilev. Where else in Venice will you » Read more
There are a dozen good reasons for visiting the Danish island of Ærø—not least because it is a perfect place to get married. More on that in a future article here on Eurocheapo. Getting to Ærø by ferry Every island has its own special appeal, and for us Ærø ticks all the right boxes. It » Read more
Think Mallorca, and cultural heritage is not the first thing that springs to mind. Three months ago, we examined—in an article here on EuroCheapo—how Mallorca is a favored spot for Z-List celebs to hang out their tired careers to dry. So those in search of fine landscapes and cultural history might be inclined to look » Read more
Finding your way around Britain’s famously complicated maze of rail tariffs isn’t easy—and the challenge is all the greater for visitors with only a hazy knowledge of the various rail operators and the multiplicity of permitted routes between any two cities. But for those in the know, there are some superb deals to be found. » Read more
If you are in any doubt about the capacity of rocks to shape relief, go to Devon. The county offers many good tutorials in geomorphology. South-west England is fabulous territory for rock jocks and Devon’s two national parks, Dartmoor and Exmoor, are good places to start. Dartmoor delights Dartmoor is England’s most extensive area of » Read more
There was a moment on the train journey to Barnstaple when the valley of the River Taw opened out to reveal a scene of rare beauty. Two fishermen waved at the train, as we slowed to stop at King’s Nympton station. A heron, evidently quite untroubled by the train, waited on the railway platform at » Read more
Exeter Cathedral comes as something of a surprise. While most cathedrals soar upwards to the heavens, Exeter squats — firmly anchored to the ground by its twin towers. The cathedral is curiously invisible from many parts of the city centre. And when you do eventually see the cathedral, its colour is something of a surprise. » Read more
In previous posts this month, Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner looked at Leipzig’s Festival of Lights (October 9), the memorial in Leipzig to the 1813 Battle of the Nations (in their 16 October article) and last week at Leipzig’s rich classical music tradition. Here they conclude their Leipzig series with a review of some of » Read more
Philanthropy is not merely an American virtue. The history of the city of Leipzig in eastern Germany shows how an enlightened mercantile class can support a strong musical tradition. Bach in Leipzig Subscription concerts were a feature of the Leipzig cultural scene as early as the 1740s. Even then, the city had great musical assets, » Read more